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The removable amplifier rack is on top, hinging upwards to allow access to the spare tire, storage, and the A2W system below.
The functional vents in front of the frunk allow airflow from the HE and radiator to exit up through the fiberglass hood and custom scoop:
I have relocated the battery, to free up engine room, and provide better weight distribution. The battery is also a lightweight unit, weighing in at only 16 lbs. I have still not found a problem with starting (it is essentially a snowmobile battery). I avoid prolonged accessory use without the engine on. The alternator (and bracket from 5sfe) was not keeping up, especially with the stereo on, so I am having a 100-amp 1993 MR2 unit rebuilt by Ohio Generator for 180+ amps. A battery is only a reserve, and for starting, and is not the problem if the voltage is dropping during driving. A new aluminum alternator bracket will shave about 10 pounds as well. I have also installed a small trickle charger that will stay in the frunk permanently (weighs a few ounces), for peace of mind. The battery is mounted inside a CyKlops custom styrofoam box which conforms to the uneven floor, and held down by a custom welded hold-down bracket (modified Canadian Tire special). Power distribution blocks and emergency kill-switch are fitted as well. The battery is turned sideways to provide more room for the A2W system.
I am learning to weld, and this is my first welding project... the hold-down clamp was for a much larger battery, so I cut it and welded the pieces alongside each other:
I also completed the brake proportioning valve mod, as I have always found the front brakes to lock up prematurely. The fittings can be found on virtually every Toyota during the same era. The stock valve is eliminated, creating 50/50 braking... due to the front discs being larger, the front ones STILL lock up first anyway, but the braking is much improved. I may also try and gut the rear part of the prop valve, and leave the front section intact, to soften the front lockup even further.
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